LIQUID F OUNDA TION MAKEUP
The first liquid foundations were known as neck and arm whiteners. They were developed for use in the theater and were early attempts to improve the characteristics of applied face powder. Early pharmaceutical methods used to develop improved foundations included combinations of calamine lotion, zinc oxide, glycerin, and water. Until the 1940s, foundations were in the form of nonflowing and very greasy pastes and creams (often called “grease paint”). The cosmetic industry soon there- after used different types of emulsifiers and thickeners combined with wetting agents, vegetable oils, and plasticizers to improve the formula- tions of spreadable viscous lotions.
The modern makeup base, in liquid, cream, or cake form, must pro- vide a quality finish, adequate coverage, and appropriate pigmentation. Consumer selection of foundation makeup should be based on skin type (e.g., presence of scars, enlarged pores, uneven skin tones, etc.), degree of sebum production (“oiliness”), skin color (e.g., sallow yellow, ruddy red, or neutral), and depth of skin color (light, medium, or dark). General types of materials used in most foundation makeups may be classified as part of the powder phase, aqueous phase, polyol phase, or oil phase.
The powder phase includes a prominently used skin covering and opaque materials such as titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide, followed by fillers including kaolin, talc, mica, and sericite (the hydrated form of mica), which create a matte finish on the skin. In addition, metallic stearates (e.g., zinc stearate, aluminum stearate) are commonly added to pro- vide both opacity and water repellency. Stable and colorfast inorganic colorants used include red, yellow, and black iron oxides, ultramarines, along with certain organic lakes (e.g., D&C Red, D&C Orange). To obtain a pearlescent appearance, materials such as bismuth oxychloride and mica are added. The aqueous phase includes mostly water, followed by wetting or dispersing agents that assist in pigment blending (e.g., lecithin and its derivatives, sulfosuccinates, ethoxylated sorbitan esters). Also found in the aqueous phase are gums and clays that operate as co-emulsifiers, thickeners, and pigment-suspending agents (e.g., magnesium aluminum silicate, bentonite, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum). The polyol phase usually consists of materials that improve makeup spreadability, decrease drying rate, aid in freeze-thaw product stability, and increase product smoothness and creaminess (e.g., glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol). The oil phase is composed of both liquid and solid materials that assist with product emulsification, spreadability, pigment dispersion, and vis- cosity control. These oil phase products include fatty acids (e.g., stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid), waxes (e.g., carnauba, ozokerite, candelilla, microcrystalline, beeswax, ceresin), liquid hydrocarbons (e.g., isohexadecane, isoeicosane, hydrogenated polybutanes), mineral oil, vegetable oils (e.g., sesame, peach kernel, apricot kernel, avocado, macadamia, kukui, meadow-foam), and pastelike butters (e.g., shea, karate, cocoa). Emulsi- fying and thickening agents (e.g., cetyl esters, propylene glycol, glyceryl esters, sorbitan, ethoxylated sorbitan esters and their derivatives), along with antioxidants (e.g., tocopherols, BHT), preservatives (e.g., meth- ylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, urea, trisodium EDTA), and fragrance added within the oil phase, may improve applica- tion properties and product quality and purity.
Oil-free makeup brands possess few emollient ingredients and tend to use fatty acid esters (e.g., isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearoyl stearate, cetearyl octanoate) as replacement for oil phase components. In addi- tion, oil-absorbing ingredients such as porous silica, nylon-12, talc, and kaolin are added to control daily oil production. Extended-wear makeup achieves the product goal with the use of a rosin ester (e.g., pentaerythri- tyl hydrogenated rosinate). Antiwrinkle makeup may contain ingredients such as C2-C28 a-hydroxy carboxylic acid or rosemarinic acid that have been shown to be effective in treating fine lines and wrinkles, or spherical material to diminish the appearance of such skin imperfections.
For specialized long-lasting water-in-silicone foundation formulations, typical oil phase materials are replaced by organofunctional silicones (e.g., cyclomethicone, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone), silicone emul- sifiers (e.g., dimethicone copolyol), suspending agents (e.g., quaternium- 18 hectorite), and thickening agents (e.g., hydrogenated castor oil, mi- crocrystalline wax). The powder phase usually incorporates pigment and filler materials treated with silicone materials (e.g., dimethicone, methi- cone) and metallic soaps (e.g., myristyl myristate, aluminum myristate) to aid in pigment and filler dispersion. Water, preservatives, and electro- lytes are major components of the aqueous phase.
No comments:
Post a Comment